The Winery, Newport Beach, California

In California, conscious efforts, to say the least, must be made if an establishment wants to provide a smoking area that is relatively convenient to its clientele. It's not easy. Clearly, the no-smoking ordinances are a hurdle, but also figuring out whether dedicating even a small amount of space to what is, admittedly, a relatively small percentage of the customer base is worthwhile. At The Winery in Newport Beach, the Havana Room is a clear indication that the restaurant's owners believe creating a cigar-friendly space is an attraction. And it has a view of the Pacific Ocean.

OK, OK. The cigar area has a view of the Newport Marina, but that's more than enough to transport you away from the busy and seemingly always under construction Pacific Coast Highway that takes you to The Winery. Walk in to the restaurant and you see an elegant space with walls that are wine and the lockers of guests who store their own bottles. This is a large space, around 10,000 square feet, and there's a lot of wine. The back wall of the restaurant is glass with a view of the water. But our interest, fellow aficionados, is upstairs.

The second floor is more big bar, private room and terrace dining with the same ocean view. Turn right, walk a little. Stop at the humidor. Pick out a smoke, then go through the door to a large-enough balcony with seating for about a dozen. There is a TV on one wall that is protected from the elements. On the night I visited, rain was falling, but none got on me or my La Aroma de Cuba Immensa (I brought it with me). The list here offers an Ashton Magnum for $24, a couple of E.P. Carrillo robustos (New Wave Connecticut at $13 and a Cardinal Natural at $15) among other decent smokes. No one frowns if you smoke your own and there is no charge for that.

I sit and ask that the Anaheim Ducks game be put on. I order the Crispy Kurobuta Pork Belly, which comes as cubes on sticks in a sweet and tangy sauce (wasabi, yuzu and toasted sesame seed reduction). Pork belly pops! Not only delicious, but they pair well with a cigar and rum. I peruse the menu as I munch on the cubes. I consider one of the Brandt Family Reserve steaks on the menu, but am filling up. The pork belly is all I would need for dinner. And another rum.

Rum, despite the surge of premium dark rum in many places across this land, still takes a back seat in most southern California bars. Very little variety. I am happy with the Bacardi 8 I'm drinking this night, but I am a proponent of rum as the perfect beverage to have with a cigar. It's time, I say, for us to catch up here!

The positive side of California liquid offerings, however, is wine. The list at The Winery changes, but there's always something interesting here from the more than 650 selections. Get something new and a table near the fireplace. Order some of the venison, buffalo, quail, squab or partridge and have a special meal before you head to the Havana Room.

The Winery in Newport Beach is the second restaurant of the same name. The other one is also in Orange County. Newport Beach takes the concept to a level that makes it one of the most attractive dining destinations on the coast, made all the more so because The Winery made the conscious effort to let us enjoy a cigar. Watch the game. Watch the boats leave the marina. Smoke on the water, ya'll. Enditem